Cleopatra's Kohl

Ancient Egypt. The mind goes to beautiful painted queens adorned with ornate headdresses and jewels, their faces stunning and immaculate. Before you get too jealous, hear this: they weren’t just born that way. Cleopatra wore makeup!

Unlike some beauty products, which were likely dreamed up in the laboratory of some big cosmetics company and adeptly marketed to the public, eyeliner, or Kohl, as it was commonly known, originated in the Bronze Age (that’s 3500 B.C., ladies!!). Though there was no doubt a decorative aspect to its application, Kohl was also used by Egyptian queens to ward off eye ailments such as poor eyesight and infections. Darkening the perimeter of the eye was also a common device to protect against the sun’s powerful rays. Kohl is made by grinding galena, or lead sulfide, and other ingredients such as oxidized copper, ochre, and malachite—always at the height of style, it is believed that the ancient Egyptians would even add in minerals and semi-precious stones, like malachite or lapus lazuli, to bring some color to the mix!

The use of kohl extended to many regions of Africa and Asia, where it was widely used for various decorative and spiritual purposes. India’s oldest caste, the koli, used kohl to ward off the evil eye: mothers would apply it to their babies soon after birth to deflect terrible curses and strengthen the eyes. In Punjabi culture, kohl is worn on special or social occasions, predominately by men. In the Islamic tradition kohl is sanctioned for use by men and women alike to strengthen vision and cleanse the eye: some sources even claim that it was worn by the Prophet Muhammed himself.

The eyeliner we typically use today is not traditional kohl, which has been warned against by scientists and beauty experts alike because of its toxic lead-based properties. It is believed, in fact, that the use of traditional kohl is behind high rates of lead poisoning among some Middle Eastern, Asian and North African peoples.   

Not to worry, the common eyeliner that you can pick up in the drugstore is safe. Many makeup artists and cosmetics brands now use the term “kohl” just to refer to a soft powder in dark matte shades that applies seamlessly and is easily smudged. No grinding of pigments necessary! You’ll be looking like Cleopatra in no time.

Tibet: Go Goji!

Goji berries are a deceptive little fruit. When fresh, they wear the disguise of slightly elongated cherry tomatoes. When dried, they look like pellet-shaped raisins that somebody has dyed for the Chinese New Year. Despite their strange, otherworldly appearance and even stranger taste-- not to mention the alternate title “wolfberry”, which hardly sounds hospitable or appetizing—certain health experts, and, more recently, celebs like Madonna and Oprah, have recently been championing the belief that that goji berries posses an almost magical ability to rejuvenate the body, both outside and in.

Of course, the magic of goji berries is something that ancient Asian cultures have known about for thousands of years. Purportedly first discovered by the Himalayans, believed by some to be the first natural healers, word of the berry’s restorative powers spread to herbalists in India, Tibet, and China, where it was used to combat a wide range of ailments and to increase life span.

The slew of health benefits assigned to this little berry is, frankly, astounding. It has been claimed to help prevent cancer and heart disease, lower cholesterol, treat diabetes and high blood pressure; improve eyesight, help insomnia and fatigue; support kidney function, boost your immune system, and promote weight loss. Studies that make these claims are in various stages—it’s sometimes hard to tell with these things how much credibility to assign them.

One thing is for sure though: goji is GREAT for your skin. Ancient healers who used the berry for longevity were certainly onto something: Goji berries are packed with all of the essential antioxidants—some say more than any “superfood”-- which slow the aging process by fighting free radicals that damage cells and DNA and impair the body’s ability to repair itself. It’s also rich in l-glutamine and I-arginine, two amino acids that play a vital role in generating protein, one of the key building blocks of skin, hair, and nails that keeps them looking healthy and beautiful. The berries contain Vitamin A-rich compounds, which also have anti-aging benefits, and bioflavonoids that help the body absorb nutrients like Vitamin C that leave the skin healthy and happy. The berry itself, some sources claim, is the third richest source of Vitamin C on the planet: 500 times more of it per gram than oranges! Polysaccharides discovered in the Goji berry also promote production of human growth hormone in the body, which helps repair skin cells-- and build muscle for those looking to get fit for resort season.

You don’t have to scale the Himalayas to get yourself some Goji. Big brands are incorporating it into lotions, body mists, and age defense serums. But you can also buy dried goji berries at your local health food store; if you can get used to the taste, they’re a great snack food! Try a strawberry goji berry smoothie or a fresh goji power soup. Or if you’re really ambitious consider whipping up some goji berry cheesecake for your next romantic night in with that special someone. Did you know goji berries are rumored to be a strong sexual tonic? Those wily things…

Iceland: Blue Lagoon Silica Mud

Iceland. It’s name conjures up images of Bjork and a chilly, unforgiving land.  But, it’s actually a hot spot, literally. It’s a country brimming with vast stores of geothermal energy that provides most of Iceland’s power (without emitting dangerous fossil-fuels!).  Even if you’re not an environmentalist, this is great news. Why? Icelandic geoactive water is home to one of the most fabulous beauty products: silica mud.  

This silky smooth white mud is found in geothermal pools throughout the country. Like gorgeous natural hot tubs, these geothermal pools of striking blue water are famous for renewing energy to body and spirit.  

At the Blue Lagoon, Iceland’s most famous geothermal spa, you can rub gobs of this slimy substance all over your body. The spa is actually located at, surprise, a place called the Blue Lagoon.  Filtering through a porous lava bedrock, the lagoon water settles down into a reservoir. At the depths of over 6000 feet, this reservoir of geothermal water is made of about 70% seawater and 30% freshwater with a temperature of 264º C.  The water has a complex mineral content, with a high level of dissolved silica, sulfur, magnesium, and other salts.

At the surface, the water in the Blue Lagoon enters into a continual process of mineral exchange with the air and lava. With the decreased temperature and pressure at the surface, the silica precipitates into a thick white mud which transforms the water into a milky brine with no visibility beyond four inches.  

Once you’ve applied the silica, the natural mask that solidifies gently in the wind is said to cleanse and exfoliate, resulting in a smooth and flawless complexion. It’s ability to strengthen the skin’s natural barrier and revitalize unhealthy skin is quite powerful. Individuals suffering from serious skin conditions, particularly psoriasis, flock far and wide to experience its healing powers, and receive intensive treatments at the prestigious Blue Lagoon Clinic.

The best news of all is that you don’t have to travel all the way to Iceland to reap the benefits of this magical mud. The Blue Lagoon Spa has developed a line of products with silica as their key ingredient, like the Silica Mud Mask and the Silica Mud Exfoliator, which are available on their website. Just draw a hot bath, close your eyes, and let the mud work its magic: you’ll feel just like you’re there. Well, almost.

Peru: Pomada de Ch'iri-Ch'iri

I found these two little gems in an open market in Lima, Peru. The Instituto de Ecologia y Plantas Medicinales (Institute of Ecology and Medicinal Plants) made these two pomades which I use as lip balm. The Institute was established in 1991 in Cuzco, Peru, and it's commercially known as IEPLAM. It works with locals to cultivate, transform and commercialize medicinal plants.

The special ingredient in this pomade is Ch'iri-Ch'iri, which is commonly known as Grindelia boliviana. Traditionally this plant was used as a holistic medicine by the local communities in the Peruvian Andes. More recently they've been harvested it aggressively for mainstream commercial uses such as aromatics. Unfortunately the harvesting has been rapid and detrimental to the local environment which is why IEPLAM is working with locals to restore crops and land.

This Ch'iri-Ch'iri pomade has an earthy smell to it. There isn't a ingredient list but it seems like the base is a heavy oil because it sits on your skin. It's more of a protectant than moisturizer.  Unlike the skin on your body, lips don't have sebaceous glands, which keep skin moisturized. So we often need the help of products like this one. In the Andes, where this is produced, winters are extremely dry and cold so this is a great companion to prevent painful cracking. For the city streets of New York, it's a bit much. I'll probably end up using this for my heels but I love what IEPLAM is doing for it's community and the environment. 

The Basics

Here are some basic facts about skin, hair and teeth.

Skin

Skin is made up of two main layers the epidermis, the outermost layer, and the dermis, the inner layer. As the largest organ of the integumentary system, skin plays a key role in protecting the body against pathogens and excessive water loss.
The epidermis, "epi" coming from the Greek meaning "over" or "upon", provides waterproofing and serves as a barrier to infection. It is actually made up of 5 sublayers. New skin cells are constantly being made in the innermost layers of skin. These skin cells evolve, become filled with keratin, and move towards to the top layer. They eventually reach the top layer, called the stratum corneum, consisting of approximately 15-350 layers of dead cells strengthened and made water-resistant by the keratin.

The dermis, which serves as a location for the appendages of skin, consists of connective tissue and cushions the body from stress and strain. It is tightly connected to the epidermis by a basement membrane. It contains the hair follicles, sweat glands, sebaceous glands, apocrine glands, lymphatic vessels, blood vessels and many nerve endings.

Hair

There are two main parts of a strand of hair: the follicle and the shaft. The part below the skin is called the hair follicle, or when pulled from the skin it's called the bulb. Hair grows from follicles which are found in the dermis layer of skin. The shaft is what extends past the skin; it's hard and filamentous.

A cross section of the hair shaft can be divided into three zones: the cuticle, the cortex, and the medulla. The cuticle, the outermost zone, is made up of layers of flat thin cells that overlap one another like roof shingles. The cortex, the next zone, contains keratin bundles that are in rod-like cell structures. The medulla is a disorganized and open area at the shaft's core.

Teeth

Teeth are calcified structures that are largely made of tooth enamel, dentin, cementum, and dental pulp. Surprisingly teeth are not made of bone, but rather of these multiple tissues of varying density and hardness.  Tooth enamel is the hardest and most highly mineralized substance  in the human body.  In fact, ninety-six percent of enamel is mineral.  Enamel is the typically visible dental tissue of a tooth which covers the anatomical crown. The crown is mostly made of dentin with a pulp center, and is above the cementoenamel junction (CEJ). Below the CEJ is the anatomic root which is covered with cementum. The roots of teeth are embedded in the Maxillary bone and are covered by gums.
  

Carita Creme des Lagons Ideal Hydration

In 1937, Maria and Rosy Carita, two sisters from Toulouse, France, started a hair salon named Carita. Success with their French elite clientele would eventually lead to today's full range of beauty products and services at their iconic salon, The House of Beauty, at 11 rue du Faubourg St Honoré in Paris.

I was introduced to the brand in the boutique of the Claremont Hotel in Berkeley, California. I figured it must be good because Carita's Creme des Lagons Ideal Hydration is a) French and b) $130 for a 1.69 fl.oz jar!

According to Carita, lagoon cream helps to energize the skin and reinforce its natural defence system with noni extract, the Tahitian fruit known for its revitalizing properties. Plus, a moisture-diffusing virtual micro-patch creates a drop-by-drop moisturizing system .

According to me, it is a pleasantly-scented, light gel-like moisturizer. It works fine in the summer and spring but is too light for chapped fall and winter skin. Although I have to say it didn't seem to penetrate my skin. It kinda just sat on top and made me feel fresh.

Beauty Revolution

In the 20th century, beauty was a form of expression, a big business, an expectation.  And while it is still all of these things, I am proposing that beauty is a tool, the very best in fact, for empowerment.  In this blog I am going to share beauty products and regimes from around the world.